Kalustyan's Masala Café

If you're wandering around Curry Hill in search of some chana masala, you might be sidetracked by the orange lights of Kalustyan's Masala Café. Although you won't find your beloved North Indian favorites there, you will experience a magical meal of exotic spices and unusual flavors. (And you may have many questions for the waiters regarding the ingredients!)

Last night, my companion and I pounced upon the last table for two. Soon, we were tearing apart a puffy cheddar kulcha bread with gusto. We were quite hungry, as we'd been deliberating over where to eat for a little while. Our boldly flavored appetizers announced the chef's gutsy tastes: a bright pink tuna carpaccio, sprinkled with spicy edamame, was accented with anchovies, and thinly sliced Long Island duck was served with sweet poached figs.

Entrees showcased a pan-Asian flair; I noticed a congee on the menu as well as a Persian-influenced lobster preparation. My companion's monkfish entrée consisted of two generous hunks of cornmeal-crusted fish on a bed of bok choy. I myself enjoyed an entrée that I'm sure I will be returning to on cool fall nights: a hotpot of eggplant and caramelized onion on a bed of lemon rice, topped off with jicama slices and crunchy lentils. Cumin salt was a fragrant condiment.

Although I usually indulge in life-enhancing chocolate for dessert, I decided not to order the malted chocolate crème brulee in favor of the caramel kulfi in a spiced apple Cointreau soup. This dessert was perhaps my only regret of the evening, as the cone of ice milk was frozen solid and impossible to eat with a spoon. Next time, I will indulge in the creme brulee, or maybe venture over to the nearby Kalustyan's Market for 142 pastries, sweets and cookies.

Kalustyan's Masala Café: 115 Lexington Ave., (212) 686-5400.